Guidance in working with Air     Drying Modelling Clay

ScolaClay is very similar in composition to Newclay which most clay modellers have heard of.  Essentially the product is potters modelling clay with the addition of nylon fibres to give it better bonded strength when dry and unfired.  It can also be   thrown, moulded and fired in a similar way to pottery clay.

Modelling With SCOLA Earthen Air Drying Clay

ScolaClay air drying modelling clay is available in terracotta and grey. Both dry somewhat lighter than the supplied colour. The nylon reinforcing fibres are an excellent bonding agent which reduces brittleness and means that the clay need not be fired and can be painted and varnished. So it is an ideal modelling medium for both children and adults

For more durable models, the clay can be fired and glazes applied.

Instructions for use

Always keep your Scolaclay in a closed container, sealed from the air. The original packaging is ideal if there are no holes in it otherwise double pack. If the clay dries out, break into small pieces, put them into a small polythene bag and sprinkle water on them, and leave until soft and workable again.

Before starting think carefully about making your model and make crude sausage or ball shapes to represent the object, e.g. a dog might comprise a ball for the head, a sausage for the body and thin sausages for the legs. Bearing in mind the clay won’t hold up weight like legs to bodies, think about using wire, sticks (dowel) and other reinforces to form your clay around – this also saves weight and clay

Next join the bits up and make sure they are well moulded to each other otherwise something is likely to fall off. Now you can start with surface features like noses, eyes etc. You can also add other materials like wood shavings, leaves, seeds and endless other things to enhance your model. The only limit is your imagination

Larger Models

If you want to make large models, it is unnecessary to make these entirely out of Scolaclay, as they might use up too much of your clay and be too heavy.

An excellent light weight former is polystyrene slab. You can buy this from your builders merchant – it is used for insulation and can easily be cut to shape with a snap off bladed knife (children beware and use only under adult supervision). The pieces can be glued together with PVA glue. You can also use tightly bunched up old newspapers but these are too springy for me.

Having got your basic shape you can now start clay modelling in earnest by making long sausages and wrapping your model in it or forming thin slabs and layering your model with it.

If your model is to be left for any time and needs work to continue on it, get an old towel, wet it, wring it out and drape the damp towel over all of the clay surfaces, thereby ensuring that it is immediately ready to work on when you come back to it. To prevent the towel drying out, use a garden spray and regularly dampen your towel.

Block Printing

ScolaClay  can be used very well to do printing. You can either cut your pattern out of a chunk of clay (like potato printing) or press blocks against a rugged surface to create a textured print. Use clay that has other material sunk into it, to create even more unusual patterns.

Making containers

The clay, unfired and unglazed is not suitable for holding water, so it is not good for making pots unless they are to be used for non liquids like dried or artificial flowers.   You can, however, model the clay around a glass or polythene container which will then hold liquid perfectly.

Using suitable glazes and firing the clay will give you a waterproof container.

Modelling in relief

Scola Clay can be used to make very large or small items and, can be glued using P.V.A. glue to cardboard tubes, boxes or hardboard. Many pattered objects can be made in this way, for example pictures and decorated boxes.

Finishing the Model

Water based paints work very well with Scola Clay  but before you finish your model, you can use heavy duty pva glue or acrylic gloss varnish to stick paper, powders, sand, seeds, sawdust, etc., to the surface.

If you want your colours to glow, coat your model in white, acrylic primer undercoat, then paint it. Good quality water based paints are ideal, e.g. system 3 artists paints or Artmix Liquid Tempera.  You can also use oil based paints (messy to clean brushes) but your model must be very dry if you use oil paints.

Having painted your model, you can then varnish it to bring up the colours and to give it that extra coat of protection. Acrylic water based varnishes work very well and are easy clean (brushes). When dry, acrylic varnish does not wash off and is water resistant.

Firing ScolaClay

If you have a kiln and want to fire your work, ScolaClay fires very well. Your kiln should be set in the range of 1000°C to 1250°C. You can glaze as you would any other clay you might use.

Disclaimer:  This work sheet has been devised by Doug Lowe without  the help or consent of either ScolaQuip and is generally derived from his own experience.  They would not necessarily agree with everything in this document.